Songkran a celebration of the new year is a joyous moment to be in Thailand and a wonderful tonic for a hot bicycle tourer.
Dusty streets washed clean. The world become water station. Doused by buckets, shot with water pistols I raced west against a background of smiles: Cooled, refreshed and laughing.
To the west lay Doi Inthanon. The highest mountain in Thailand. I planned to skirt this mighty prominence to the north before following the Mae Hong Son loop south down to the Burmese border crossing point at Mae Sot.
Quiet provincial Wats peppered the foot hills. Unpolished gaud and unswept paths.
Kept company in royal style.
And visited by a less heavy hands
Climbing upwards the forests became thicker
And the signs more inscrutable
The climb into the cool highland air felt good and I cantered upwards covering the 75 miles to the Do Mai Ya checkpoint and entering the province of Mae Hong Son well ahead of schedule.
Emboldened I revised my plan to camp hereabouts and resolved to descend into the Pai valley now and overnight in the eponymous town.
Stopping at viewpoints and rest stops along the way I had chatted merrily with others embarking on the loop. It seemed a popular trip among backpackers who having rented mopeds would zoom effortlessly past my laboured crank turns. Nonchalantly I spoke of my trip explaining that while the day was hot and the roads steep that I had been doing this for a while now and that no I wouldn't swap my bike for love nor moped.
On my descent I found one of them had come a cropper on a sharp bend. Off piste but thankfully not too far down the hillside I stopped and joined his friends in rending aid. The moped was irretrievable but he was well enough. As they waited on Thai AA I continued downwards, with increased caution, reaching the river with the sun still in the sky.
Tired but happy I set off on foot resolved to enjoy the sunset across Pai Canyon and leave the scant 5miles into Pai for later.
A rewarding decision
As the subtle hues of the brown earth shifting from umber to tangerine before my eyes
Darkness smothered the view and I wound my way back to the bike. A long day now over remained heavy in my legs. Rushing in anticipation of a cheap bed and a good meal I went forth, until for the first time across the now years of touring my legs cramped. Clipped into my pedals the shooting pain forced my legs straight and I found myself laid out on the road. Thighs spasmed and I laughed and laughed. The absurdity of turtling in the road contrasting brilliantly with the hubris of my earlier feelings of strength. Unable to tame the pain I wiggled desperately. Unable to rise I tugged weakly on my bike dragging it and myself inch by inch towards the verge. As I lay smiling at the sky my legs rippling disconcertingly three American girls came by on their mopeds. The self same who I had so happily regaled earlier with tales of long experience bicycle touring. Keen not to so utterly dash the image I have woven I strived to jump up but uncooperative legs undermined my attempt to save face. As they peered down I explained calmly that I was perfectly fine but thank you for your thoughtful inquiries. Just a touch of cramp, perfectly normal and I would soon be on my way.
After much reassurance they wished me well and set off only to return a few minutes later, with me still laying prone, to offer a snack and a sugary drink. Such kindness bruised my ego but touched my heart. Thank you. My most oft uttered phrase when about on the bike was summoned once again.
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